Fixing Common Candle Issues: Tunneling, Frosting, Poor Hot Throw & More

Candle making is an art, a science, and occasionally… a battle. You measure, mix, and pour, expecting perfection, only to be met with tunneling, weak scent throw, or a frosted finish that makes your candle look like it aged overnight. Sound familiar? Don’t worry, you’re not alone. These are some of the most common candle-making issues, and luckily, they all have solutions. Let’s break down why they happen and how to fix them.

1. Tunneling: The Candle That Won’t Burn Evenly

What It Looks Like:
Your candle burns straight down the middle, leaving a thick ring of unused wax around the edges.

Why It Happens:
The wick is too small for the diameter of the vessel.
The candle wasn’t burned long enough during the first burn (wax has a memory and will continue burning the way it started).
Too much fragrance oil or additives have disrupted the burn.

How to Fix It:
Prevention is key: The first burn should always last long enough to melt the wax all the way to the edges of the vessel, this usually takes 1-2 hours per inch of diameter.
Use the right wick: Test different wick sizes to ensure full melt pool formation. A wick that’s too small won’t generate enough heat to melt the wax evenly.
Try the “foil trick”: If tunneling has already started, wrap aluminum foil around the edges of the candle and let it burn for a while. This traps heat and helps melt the wax evenly.

2. Frosting: The White Crystals on Your Wax

What It Looks Like:
A powdery, white coating on the surface or sides of your candle.

Why It Happens:
Natural waxes (especially soy and coconut) are prone to frosting due to crystallization as the wax cools.
Pouring at the wrong temperature can trigger frosting.
Temperature fluctuations during curing and storage make the issue worse.

How to Fix It:
Pour at the right temp: Pour soy wax between 120-140°F (49-60°C) to help reduce frosting.
Cool candles gradually: Avoid placing freshly poured candles in a cold or drafty environment. Let them cool slowly at room temperature.
Try different wax blends: Adding a small percentage of coconut wax or another soft wax to soy can help minimize frosting.

3. Poor Hot Throw: The Candle Smells Weak When Burning

What It Looks Like:
Your candle smells amazing in the bottle but barely gives off any fragrance when burned.

Why It Happens:
The fragrance oil load is too low or too high.
The wax and fragrance oil aren’t fully bonding.
The wick isn’t generating enough heat to create an effective scent throw.
The candle hasn’t cured long enough.

How to Fix It:
Adjust your fragrance load: Most waxes perform best with 6-10% fragrance oil. Using too much can prevent the wax from binding properly, leading to poor scent throw.
Mix at the right temperature: Always add fragrance oil at the recommended temperature (usually between 180-200°F) to ensure proper binding.
Let your candles cure: Soy and coconut wax candles need at least 1-2 weeks to fully cure for the best scent throw. Paraffin wax requires less time but can still benefit from a short cure period.
Test different wick sizes: A wick that’s too small won’t create enough heat to vaporize the fragrance oil effectively.

4. Wet Spots: The Candle Looks Like It’s Pulling Away from the Jar

What It Looks Like:
Patches where the wax isn’t fully adhered to the container, creating an uneven or “wet” look.

Why It Happens:
Temperature fluctuations cause the wax to expand and contract.
The glass was too cold when the wax was poured.
The wax cooled too quickly, causing shrinkage.

How to Fix It:

Pre-warm your jars: Slightly warming your vessels before pouring can help the wax adhere more evenly.
Pour at a steady, controlled temperature: Avoid pouring too hot or too cold. A range of 130-160°F (54-71°C) is usually best.
Store candles in a stable environment: Avoid drastic temperature changes during storage and curing.

5. Sinkholes: The Hidden Craters Inside Your Candle

What It Looks Like:
Holes or air pockets inside the wax, usually appearing around the wick.

Why It Happens:
The wax cooled too quickly, trapping air inside.
Pouring in multiple layers without proper adhesion.
Not stirring the wax thoroughly before pouring.

How to Fix It:

Tap or stir the wax before pouring: This helps release air bubbles before they get trapped.
Pour in two stages: Fill the vessel ¾ of the way, let it cool slightly, then top it off.• Use a heat gun: If sinkholes appear, a quick blast with a heat gun can smooth the surface.

Final Thoughts
Candle-making is part craft, part chemistry, and part trial and error. Even experienced makers run into these issues from time to time. The key is to experiment, adjust, and keep testing until you find what works best for your wax, fragrance, and wick combinations.

Have a candle making mystery that’s stumping you? Drop your questions in the comments or reach out, we love helping makers perfect their craft!

Happy candle making!